Kodak Agfa presents: Cairo’s Ramadan Bazaar of Ahmed Maher Street or from Bab El-Khalk to Bab Zewaila Gate aka Taht el-Rab’a “Part.1”

I initially thought this would be a simple walk down a single street. But I should have known better. We’re talking about a street in Islamic Cairo—layers upon layers of history.

That’s why this post will be divided into two parts.

Ramadan crescent became a lantern too in Taht al-Rab'a 

This year, I decided to explore the street on foot instead of driving, as I did last year when I took Bab El-Khalq to Bab Zuweila via Ahmed Maher Street, historically and socially known as Taht el-Rab’a.

Walking through it is an entirely different experience, especially with the annual Ramadan bazaar taking shape in the middle of Sha’ban, about 15 days before the holy month begins.

Tahte El-Rab’a Street starts at the Cairo Security Directorate—currently undergoing major renovations—and ends at Bab Zuweila.

For more than 150 years lanterns have been made and sold in Taht el-Rab'a 

The street is the heart of Egypt’s traditional handmade Ramadan lantern industry, locally and globally.

It is home to workshops that craft these lanterns from glass and tin, most of them family businesses passed down through generations.

One of the workshops specialized in lanterns, as well as tinware and copperware 

Some of these workshops also produce other tinware and copperware items, as demand for such dinnerware has recently increased.

However, during this time of year, the primary focus remains on Ramadan lanterns.

 

One of the workshops specialized in lanterns, as well as tinware and copperware 

The exact reason why or how Taht El-Rab’a became a hub for lantern-making remains unclear, but historians trace this tradition back about a century and a half.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

Around that time, the lantern took on its modern form with that pyramid shape in some irony, becoming a distinct element of Egyptian Ramadan folklore, deeply associated with this street

Over time, its design evolved, manufacturing techniques improved, and new materials were introduced, keeping the craft alive and attracting skilled artisans.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

The origins of the "Taht el-Rab’a" bazaar are closely linked to the foundation of Cairo itself.

In 969 AD (358 AH), Jawhar al-Siqilli, the Fatimid general who founded Cairo, designated specific quarters for his troops.

On the right side of Bab Zuweila, he settled Berber and Sudanese soldiers, and the area became known as "Harat al-Sudan" or "Sudan’s Alley"—more accurately translated as "The Black People’s Alley." This quarter extended to the Egyptian Canal near Bab al-Khalq.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

The name "Harat al-Sudan" remained in use until the reign of Sultan al-Zahir Baybars, who significantly redeveloped the area. 

In 1263 AD, Baybars transformed the street, dividing the surrounding land and establishing a large residential and commercial complex.

This structure was originally called "Al-Rub’," but over time, its pronunciation changed in everyday speech to "el-Rabea” or”el-Rab’a.

Revenue from the complex helped fund the construction of Baybars’ renowned madrasa on Bayn al-Qasrayn street (now part of the Al-Moez Street historical district).

Bayn al-Qasrayn area in El-Muizz street

Yup, I went there but Al-Moez street is like a whole universe but back to Taht el-Rab'a 

Originally the market was built outside the southern walls of Fatimid Cairo and was initially called "Al-Rub’ al-Zahiri" in honor of Sultan Baybars. “Naming places after leaders is one of the most Egyptian traditions. Unfortunately, it has been embedded in Egyptian culture since Ancient Egypt.”

However, 160 years after its establishment, a massive fire during the reign of Sultan Muhammad ibn Qalawun destroyed the complex.

Despite the devastation, Tahte El-Rabea remained a bustling commercial center. Historian Al-Maqrizi recorded that the fire in 721 AH (1321 AD) consumed over 120 houses and a "qaysariyya" (a small gate or market entrance) known as "Qaysariyyat al-Fuqara." The gate served as an entry and exit point to Fatimid Cairo, which contributed to the area's name, "Taht el-Rab’a."

According to historian Abdel Rahman Zaki in The Encyclopedia of Cairo Over a Thousand Years, the "Rab’a" complex originally had a single entrance for all residents. The upper floor was accessed via a long corridor, with apartments overlooking it.

These furnished units were only rented to families, ensuring a strong sense of community and security.

A very old Egyptian traditional house with wooden Mashrbiyas in Taht El-Rab'a

Before modernization, the street was characterized by trenches and narrow alleyways connecting it to nearby quarters. Over time, its name changed several times—from Harat al-Sudan to Taht el-Rab'a, then Bab al-Khalq, before reverting once again to Taht el-Rab’a.

Already, Taht el-Rab’a is located inside the Bab al-Khalq area, which extends to the Islamic Museum of Cairo or Ahmed Maher square.

The Ramadan lanterns outside and on the left of Bab Zuwaila 

Bab al-Khalq has its own story, originally named Bab Al-Kharaq, Bab Al-Khalq was located at the head of the road “Taht El-Rabea” leading from Bab Zuweila to the square now known as Ahmed Maher Square.

This road, today called Tahat Al-Rub' Street, was an important route in medieval Cairo. The gate was constructed during the reign of Sultan Al-Salih Najm al-Din Ayyub in 639 AH (1241 AD), the same year he ordered the construction of the Qantara Bab Al-Kharaq, a bridge over the Egyptian canal opposite the gate. At the time, urban expansion had extended along both sides of the road outside Bab Zuweila.

Stands selling lanterns outside Bab Zuwaila gate in Cairo 

The square where Bab Al-Kharaq once stood was also known as Midan Bab Al-Kharaq. However, due to the negative connotations of the word Kharaq (meaning "tear" or "rupture"), and because the area was a bustling hub frequented by large crowds, the city administration under Khedive Ismail decided to rename it Bab Al-Khalq, meaning "Gate of the People." Today, it is known as Ahmed Maher Square.

Back to Tah’t El-Rabea, it is officially known as Ahmed Maher Street, named after late Egyptian Prime Minister Ahmed Maher Pasha.

However, for us, the Egyptians, it remains Tahte El-Rabea—a place where you can buy Ramadan lanterns at lower prices than in El-Sayeda Zeinab Ramadan market.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

From mid-Sha’ban until the start of Ramadan, the street comes alive with thousands of shoppers seeking traditional lanterns, keeping a centuries-old tradition vibrant and thriving.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

After Ramadan ends, and at most within two months, the workshops resume work for the next Ramadan season.

These workshops not only cater to the local market but have also recently expanded to serve foreign markets, particularly in the Gulf and Europe.

The entrances of the buildings in the street turned into lanterns warehouses 

The workshops and their warehouses are throughout the street.

Now I can’t be in the Tah’t el-Rab’a street and ignore the Lady Fatima El-Shaqra Mosque.

Lady Fatima El-Shaqra Mosque in Tah't el-Rab'a

The Fatima Al-Shaqraa Mosque in Tah’t Al-Rab’a built by Rashid Al-Din Al-Baha’i in 873 AH / 1468 AD, during the reign of the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay.

The mosque was later renovated during the Ottoman era by Lady Fatima Al-Shaqraa, after whom it is named.

This mosque reflects the architectural style of the late Mamluk period, characterized by intricate stonework and elegant domes. Its Ottoman-era renovations likely introduced additional decorative elements and restorations.

The minaret of the mosque suffered structural cracks, necessitating its dismantling and reconstruction in 2017. Given its extensive expertise in such projects, the Arab Contractors Company undertook the restoration, employing all necessary resources to ensure a precise and faithful reconstruction.

Lady Fatima el-Shaqra's entrance among the lanterns invasion

The restoration and reinforcement of the mosque's minaret took two years to complete in 2019.

The Ottoman style minaret of Fatma el-Shaqra Mosque appears opposite
to the lanterns  

I can’t be in Tah’t Al-Rab’a and ignore Al-Masry Lantern Shop, Egypt’s longest-running lantern shop to this day.

Al-Masry lanterns shop in Taht el-Rab'a 

Despite its small size, this tiny shop has gained huge popularity in recent years, thanks to social media.

Shereef Al-Masry runs the oldest lantern shop in Tah’t Al-Rab’a, passed down in his family since 1937. After retiring, he dedicated himself fully to the business. His store offers a blend of classic and modernized antiques, including kerosene lamps, engraved copper coffee burners, and decorative trays. With Ramadan approaching, he continues to produce traditional lanterns, including replicas of the first candle-lit lantern from 85 years ago.

In the beginning of the street, there is the first branch of Harraz, Egypt’s famous perfumer and herbalist.

Harraz, the perfumer and herbalist's first branch

Harraz was founded in 1939 by Abdel Rahman Mohamed Harraz, who had a deep interest in herbal medicine. He began his journey by trading medicinal and aromatic herbs, excelling in the field through extensive research and studies. His contributions played a significant role in reviving the practice of herbal medicine in Egypt, and he became a mentor to many aspiring herbalists. Over time, he earned the title Sheikh of Perfumers and Herbalists.

I also found a Kunafa shop “Kanfany El-Gomhouria” which was also passed down the family of its owner. He is currently the third-generation owner running the business.

It makes Kunafa and Qatayef.

Kanafany El-Goumharia shop is hiding beneath the lanterns,
but you can see it on the right

Both Kunafa and Qatayef are staple food items in Egypt during Ramadan.

Our Kunafa version is completely different from the cheesy one found in the Levant.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

Now, let’s talk about today’s lanterns—or fanouses—and sales amidst Egypt’s economic crisis and severe inflation.

One of the lantern merchants in the Tah’t Al-Rab’a area told Masrawy News Website that prices have increased by 10% compared to last year.

Checking the Ramadan Khayamiya lanterns 

Lantern prices vary by type, starting at EGP 300 and reaching up to EGP 600, while Khayamiya lanterns range from EGP 100 to EGP 1,000, depending on the material, design, and size.

The main reason behind the price increase is the rising cost of raw materials and production expenses.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

Another contributing factor is the increase in rental and labor costs.

Most sales are made to traders from various governorates, who purchase lanterns in bulk to resell in their shops.

Barakat Safa, Deputy Head of the Stationery and Toys Division at the Cairo Chamber of Commerce, told Masrawy this week that demand for Ramadan lanterns has significantly declined, with sales reaching only about 30% of total production.

Customers checking Ramadan lanterns outside Bab Zuweila gate

Safa explained that this drop in sales is due to a noticeable market slowdown, despite a decrease in supply compared to last year.

He added that local lantern production has fallen by 80% compared to the previous year, with only around 2 million lanterns manufactured this season—down from the 10 million produced annually in past years.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns sold in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

Many factories and workshops have halted lantern production entirely, while others are operating at no more than 50% capacity due to weak expected demand. This trend has also been evident during other seasonal occasions, such as Christmas and Valentine's Day, both of which saw sluggish sales.

Egyptian Ramadan lanterns stands in Cairo's Taht el-Rab'a

Safa further noted that consumers are currently prioritizing essential expenses like food and education, making purchases of lanterns and other seasonal goods more cautious, which has contributed to the market stagnation this year.

Even the saint patrons of Ramadan Bogy and Tamtam are feeling sad for the decline in lanterns’ sales due to the economic crisis.

Bogy and Tamtam 

Especially Tamtam. I will stop here but we will continue our tour shortly inshallah.

Here is also a video from Azan Al-Maghrib from the mosques around Bab Zewaila gate. 

And the annual visit to El-Seyada Zeinab annual Ramadan bazaar. 

Wait for the second part of the post with more videos.