Seen in Downtown Cairo : Before and after the Egyptian Railways Engineering Building

Seen in Downtown Cairo: Before-and-after photos of the Egyptian Railways Engineering Building document the final days of the famous 100-plus-year-old headquarters in Ramses Square — from its preparation for demolition, to the demolition itself, and finally its disappearance to make way for the widening of the October Bridge.

Constructed in 1908, the building was officially listed as architecturally significant under Law 144 of 2006, which protects structures of historical and aesthetic value.

However, in May 2024, the Ministry of Housing issued a decree removing several properties in western Cairo from that protected list, including the Egyptian Railways headquarters at 6 El-Galaa Street.

In 2026, it was fully demolished. I took photos of it in those days, if not months.

Happy Easter 2026 from Egypt and Palestine too

Happy Easter to all those celebrating today—especially Egyptian and Sudanese Coptic Orthodox Christians, as well as Palestinian and Lebanese Orthodox communities.

On this occasion, I’m sharing a photo of the Church of the Martyr St. Philopater Mercurius in Mohandessin, Giza—commonly known as “Abu Sefein,” or “the man of two swords.”

Kodak Agfa presents: Cairo’s Al-Sayeda Zeinab Ramadan Bazaar 2026

It is the time for annual posts celebrating Ramadan bazaars in Cairo.

This year, I went to Al-Sayeda Zeinab’s annual Ramadan bazaar, and it was great and amazing as usual.

Ramadan Kareem, as always, from Al-Sayeda Zeinab

I didn’t go to Al-Sayeda Zeinab Bazaar last year — I only passed by quickly in the car.

Last year, I went to the Taht el-Rab’a Ramadan Bazaar, and I actually went again this year.

Inshallah, wait for more photos and more stories from Tahat el-Rab’a and beyond.

Back to Al-Sayeda Zeinab’s bazaar, it was buzzing this year.

Port Said Street in Al-Sayeda Zeinab was crowded with people 

You feel the spirit of Ramadan as soon as you set foot in Port Said Street, right in front of Al-Sayeda Zeinab Mosque and Shrine.

Al-Sayeda Zeinab Mosque and Shrine after renovations 

By the way, these photos were taken this time with a Sony a6500 and a wide-angle E 20mm lens, as a change from the usual kit lens.

Kodak Agfa Presents: Umm Kulthum .. The Voice of Egypt Exhibit in photos

Today marks the 51st anniversary of the death of Egypt’s legendary singer, Umm Kulthum.

Over the past year, Egypt hosted several events to commemorate the jubilee of the Planet of the East’s passing, beginning on 3 February 2025.

Last February, Egyptian Chronicles paid a visit to her small yet remarkably rich museum, which chronicles her life and legacy.

This year, I’m sharing another quick visit—this time to a special exhibition held in her honor by Egypt’s Ministry of Culture at Aisha Fahmy Palace, the Centre of Arts in Cairo’s Zamalek.

Titled “The Voice of Egypt,” the exhibition lived up to its name: Thuma truly was the voice of Egypt.

Umm Kalthoum statue between paintings

Held at Aisha Fahmy Palace from August through November 2025, the exhibition proved to be a major success.

I visited it in October.

Inside Thuma's exhibit

The exhibition included many things. "Spoiler: Keep reading and scroll down the post—the best is yet to come, and the true gems of the exhibition are just below. Make sure to read to the end."

It featured a selection of Umm Kulthum’s personal belongings, on loan from her museum on Al-Manial Island, including her notebook, pen, gloves, and sunglasses.

Kodak Agfa presents in Photos: A Cairo Christmas 2026 “7 January Shubra edition”

It’s time for the second edition of our annual Egyptian Chronicles series: Christmas in Cairo, Vol. 2.

As always, this post features photos and videos of Cairo’s Christmas decorations as the city celebrates 7 January — Orthodox Christmas, observed by Orthodox Christian communities.

Merry Christmas to all those celebrating it.

The nativity scene at Saint Ibram shop 

Okay, a brief social and historical note: most Christian Egyptians belong to the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria, one of the oldest Christian churches in the world.

You might wonder why Christmas in Egypt is celebrated on 25 December and 7 January.

The difference comes down to the calendar. Most of the world uses the Gregorian calendar, which places Christmas on 25 December.

The Coptic Orthodox Church, however, follows the Julian calendar, which is currently 13 days behind — hence Coptic Christmas falling on 7 January.

Interestingly, in the early centuries of Christianity, the Eastern Church—in regions such as Egypt and Syria—celebrated Theophany on 6 January.

This was a single, “double feast” commemorating both the birth of Jesus and his baptism.

It was only later that Western Christianity separated the two events, assigning Jesus’ birth to 25 December, while the Eastern churches maintained their traditions in line with the Julian calendar.

Kodak Agfa presents in Photos : A Cairo Christmas 2025 “25 December Korba Edition”

It is time for one of our annual posts on Egyptian Chronicles: The Christmas in Cairo Post, Vol. 1.

As usual, this will be a photo post capturing Christmas decorations across Cairo as the city marks 25 December — the Western Christmas, observed by Western Christian denominations.

Christmas decorations on building No.6 in Baghdad Street, Korba

This year’s celebrations come as Palestinians in Gaza and the West Bank attempt to observe Christmas in a semi-normal way, despite Israel’s continued violations of the ceasefire in Gaza and ongoing settler attacks in the West Bank — raising the question of whether a ceasefire truly exists at all.

Israeli police have already arrested a Palestinian dressed as Santa in Haifa, yet Palestinians continue to seek moments of normalcy after two years of genocide and amid an uncertain future.

Days at the Egyptian Museum of Cairo : The Canopus Decree Stela “Happy Egyptian New Year 6266, Happy Coptic New Year 1741”

Happy Egyptian New Year 6267, Happy Coptic New Year 1742

Today, 11 September, marks “1 Tut,” the first day of the Ancient Egyptian Year 6267, according to the ancient Egyptian calendar.

It is also the first day of the Coptic Year 1742 AM.

Tut refers to Thoth, in case you do not know "Thoth by Midjourney"

As I do every year, I’ll repeat the reminder that the Ancient Egyptian/Coptic New Year begins on 1 Tut, which usually falls on 11 or 12 September in the Gregorian calendar. This calendar continues to be used in Egypt today to determine the dates of religious feasts—particularly in the Coptic Church—and to mark the agricultural seasons.

On this occasion, I’d like to share a unique and monumental piece at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo: the great limestone stela of the Canopus Decree in honor of Ptolemy III.

The Canopus Decree in honor of Ptolemy III at the Egyptian Museum of Cairo

The Canopus Decree is a trilingual inscription—carved in hieroglyphs, Demotic, and Greek—and stands as the second-earliest example of such trilingual decrees.

The most famous of these, of course, is the Rosetta Stone (which, needless to say, should return to Rosetta, Egypt).

The decree commemorates a grand assembly of priests held at the city of Canopus, on the outskirts of modern Alexandria, to honor Ptolemy III Euergetes of the Ptolemaic dynasty, along with his wife Queen Berenice and Princess Berenice.

Kodak Agfa Presents in Photos and Video : The Total Eclipse of a blood moon

Last night, the Earth’s Eastern Hemisphere was treated not only to September’s naturally reddish moon but also to the spectacle of a total lunar eclipse.

Stargazers—myself included—across the Middle East, Africa, Asia, Australia, and parts of Europe witnessed the Moon glowing blood-red as Earth’s shadow fully engulfed it. It’s not every night that we get such a rare and breathtaking opportunity.

The Egyptian National Research Institute of Astronomy and Geophysics (NRIAG) had announced earlier that Egypt and the wider Arab region would witness this eclipse on the evening of Sunday, September 7, 2025, coinciding with the full moon of Rabiʿ al-Awwal 1447 AH.

At the eclipse’s peak, Earth’s shadow covered the Moon completely, with the umbra extending to 136.2% of the lunar disk—a sign of how deeply the Moon was immersed in Earth’s shadow.

According to NRIAG, the entire phenomenon lasted about five hours and 27 minutes. The partial phases stretched over three hours and 29 minutes, while the total eclipse—the moment of the striking Blood Moon—remained visible for one hour and 22 minutes.

In Cairo, the eclipse unfolded according to NRIAG

6:28 p.m. – The Moon enters Earth’s penumbra (not visible to the naked eye). I failed to see it for real as it was cloudy.

7:27 p.m. – Partial eclipse begins, with Earth’s shadow appearing on the Moon’s disk.

8:31 p.m. – Start of total eclipse, with the Moon completely in Earth’s shadow.

Kodak Agfa Presents: Some of Egypt’s Islamic artifacts treasure on Mawlid Al-Nabawi 2025

Happy and Blessed Moulid El-Nabi to all Muslims around the globe

Tonight, nearly one and a half billion Muslims around the world are celebrating the birthday of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), commonly known in Arabic as El-Moulid, Mawlid El-Nabawy, or simply Al-Mawlid.

El-Moulid El-Nabawy is observed on the 12th of Rabi Al-Awwal in the Islamic calendar, which falls on September 4th this year.

This year, I didn’t go to the usual El-Moulid sweets markets in Cairo as the usual Kodak Agfa’s tradition. I couldn’t.

It’s hard for me to film or photograph the celebrations of Mawlid al-Nabawi 2025 in Egypt while genocide is still unfolding in Gaza.

How can we celebrate the Prophet’s birthday when Palestinians—mostly Muslims—are facing famine, as confirmed by the United Nations?

How can I stand among stalls overflowing with sweets and candies when so many Palestinians can’t even find their next meal?

It feels wrong. It feels unethical.

To me, it’s inappropriate, irreligious, and un-Islamic to celebrate in such a consuming, extravagant way. I cannot believe that Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) would accept Muslims celebrating his birthday with such excess while their brothers and sisters are being slaughtered and starved in an ongoing genocide and famine.

I grew up in an Egyptian family that believed in respect—so much so that if a neighbor lost someone, we lowered the TV volume out of consideration. Today, our neighbors in Gaza are living through genocide and famine. To hold festivities in such times feels nothing but shameful.

The same can be said for Sudan, where people are begging for food aid drops.

That’s why I can’t share new photos or videos of Moulid markets and sweets. Instead I will share some photos related to the Islamic civilization in Egypt.

Days at the Egyptian Museum of Cairo: Hapi of the Nile Flood

Today, Egypt is officially celebrating Wafaa al-Nil or the Nile Loyalty Festival.

If you think this is a newly invented holiday, think again. Wafaa al-Nil is one of the oldest festivals still celebrated in Egypt today, alongside Sham El-Nassim. In fact, it is among the country’s most ancient traditions—dating back over 7,000 years.

Hapi and the River Nile generated by Sora 

The ancient Egyptians linked the festival to the annual inundation of the Nile, which typically began in mid-July and peaked between mid-August and early September. 

The date most often associated with it is August 15, when the floodwaters became clearly visible in Memphis (and later Cairo). The exact timing, however, depended on rainfall in Ethiopia.

Historical evidence traces the festival back as far as the Old Kingdom (c. 2686–2181 BCE), with inscriptions and temple reliefs depicting rituals dedicated to Hapi, the god of the Nile’s flood.

On this occasion, I’m sharing a couple of photos of Hapi from the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

Seen in Cairo : El Basilica of Heliopolis

On the occasion of Easter, here is a photo taken during Christmas of Our Lady of Heliopolis Co-Cathedral — also known as the Latin Cathedral of Our Lady of Heliopolis, the Basilica of the Holy Virgin, Basilique de Notre-Dame d'Héliopolis, or simply El Basilica in Cairo.

El-Basilica or Basilique de Notre-Dame d'Heliopolis 

This Roman Catholic church is located on Al-Ahram Square in Heliopolis. Designed in the Byzantine Revival style by French architect Alexandre Marcel, the cathedral was inspired by the Hagia Sophia and commissioned by Baron Empain through his Cairo Electric Railways & Heliopolis Oasis Company. It was completed in 1913.

Kodak Agfa presents: Cairo’s Ramadan Bazaar of Ahmed Maher Street or from Bab El-Khalk to Bab Zewaila Gate aka Taht el-Rab’a “Part.1”

I initially thought this would be a simple walk down a single street. But I should have known better. We’re talking about a street in Islamic Cairo—layers upon layers of history.

That’s why this post will be divided into two parts.

Ramadan crescent became a lantern too in Taht al-Rab'a 

This year, I decided to explore the street on foot instead of driving, as I did last year when I took Bab El-Khalq to Bab Zuweila via Ahmed Maher Street, historically and socially known as Taht el-Rab’a.

Walking through it is an entirely different experience, especially with the annual Ramadan bazaar taking shape in the middle of Sha’ban, about 15 days before the holy month begins.

Tahte El-Rab’a Street starts at the Cairo Security Directorate—currently undergoing major renovations—and ends at Bab Zuweila.

For more than 150 years lanterns have been made and sold in Taht el-Rab'a 

The street is the heart of Egypt’s traditional handmade Ramadan lantern industry, locally and globally.

It is home to workshops that craft these lanterns from glass and tin, most of them family businesses passed down through generations.

One of the workshops specialized in lanterns, as well as tinware and copperware 

Some of these workshops also produce other tinware and copperware items, as demand for such dinnerware has recently increased.

However, during this time of year, the primary focus remains on Ramadan lanterns.

 

One of the workshops specialized in lanterns, as well as tinware and copperware 

The exact reason why or how Taht El-Rab’a became a hub for lantern-making remains unclear, but historians trace this tradition back about a century and a half.

Kodak Agfa Presents: Cairo’s Umm Kulthum Museum in photos and video

It was like a perfect cinematic moment that Saturday afternoon. Just two days before the 50th anniversary of Umm Kulthum’s passing, you step out of her small yet rich museum in Cairo, still enveloped in the aura of her larger-than-life presence.

Outside, by the Nile, an old yet elegant man sits alone, detached from the world around him. From the small speakers of his mobile phone drifts the voice of Umm Kulthum, chanting "Lailat Hob"—her last recorded love song. He gazes into the river, lost in a trance, as though the currents carry the echoes of his own memories, entwined with the Lady’s immortal voice.

It was a perfect Egyptian scene. I wanted to capture it, to ask him what Umm Kulthum meant to him. But I did not dare, unwilling to be the one to pull him back to reality.

That scene summarizes a lot about Umm Kulthum and Egyptians if not Arabs.

Umm Kulthum's statue outside her museum in Al-Manial island 

On Monday Egypt remembered that 50 years ago it woke up to find its “Planet of East” Umm Kulthum passed away after having

Umm Kulthum died on the same day the music died in the US. She died but her legacy and art still stand as the true fourth pyramid in Egypt.

According to historians and those who witnessed the day, her funeral was a popular one to the level that people compared to the funeral of the second president of Egypt and her lifelong fan Gamal Abdel Nasser.

Yes, Umm Kulthum Ibrahim, the singer who came from rural Nile Delta’s Tamay e-Zahayra village had the biggest public funeral of a woman in Egypt in the modern age if not in the nation’s long recorded history.

I can’t speak about Umm Kulthum or Thuma or the Dame “as we nickname her in Egypt for decades” easily thus I would focus on her museum.

Umm Kulthum Museum is located inside the Nilometer-Manasterly Palace site on Manial Al-Roda Island in Cairo.

Kodak Agfa presents : Christmas 2024 in Cairo's Korba

"Tis the season" because it is one of the annual posts Egyptian Chronicles: The Christmas in Egypt post.

Despite the genocides in Palestine and Sudan as well as the developments in Syria and Yemen, I am trying to keep those posts so I would not fall into that dark hole of a depressing news cycle without any hope.

There is always hope

Also, in solidarity with Egypt’s Mohamed Salah and the annual controversial photo of his Christmas tree, I share those photos from Cairo.

God knows I am not a Mo Salah fangirl, but I got bored from the annual attack on Egypt’s national team captain and Liverpool right winger for the wrong reasons.

You can attack and criticize lots of issues, like for instance the lack of true and real support to Gaza and its people. “Salah is said to donate a big sum of money to the Gaza relief but that’s not enough when we are speaking about a true genocide just like other stars like Sam Morsy and Gary Linker”

This year I want to visit the famous Korba area in the Heliopolis district to see its famous Christmas decorations.

Christmas decorations in Korba 

This year, the Korba’s Christmas decorations became the talk of Egypt on social media, specifically that one building.

Christmas decorations in Korba 

This building is on Baghdad Street, which is about two blocks away from the Presidential Palace ala Al-Ittihadiya Palace.

Kodak Agfa Presents : Egypt’s Spring Flowers Show 2024 “91st edition”

Another belated post. How can you post a post about flowers show when there are ongoing genocides whether in Gaza or Sudan, especially Gaza.

Again, I was waiting for a truce, so I can’t post this, but it seems there is no hope.

A truck full of flowers and plants of every type you can imagine 

Also, I went to the Autumn Flowers Show 2024. “Yeah, it turned out that Egypt got one,” and I must share the Spring flowers before I go for the Autumn flowers.

The Spring Flowers Show 2024 was delayed nearly four times as I have read.

It was not inaugurated by the Minister of Agriculture as the custom for unknown reasons.

Into one of the partitions in the show

It was not held at its original time on 21 March because it was during Ramadan at that time.

I can’t find a reason why because actually it was used to be held in Ramadan and even with activities after the Iftar.

The show kicked off on 19 May till the last day of Eid Al-Adha which was on 19 June.

Kodak Agfa presents: El-Mawlid bazaar 2024 at Cairo’s El-Sayeda Zeinab in photos and videos

I should have posted weeks ago, but I could not with the ongoing genocide in Gaza and the war on Lebanon by Israel.

It is never too late though. Tonight is actually the Mawlid of Imam El-Hussein so it is a suitable night to share those photos.

God knows when I took the camera and went to El-Sayeda Zeinab to see how the Mawlid El-Nabawi annual bazaar. 

It was an attempt to break the cycle of depressing news.

Yes, it is the same street that I go to every year.

It helped a bit.

It was a good temporary escape so here are the photos and videos from one of Cairo’s biggest Mawlid Al-Nabawi sweets bazaar.

Mawlid Al-Nabawi is the anniversary of Prophet Mohamed's “PBUH” birthday.

It is observed on the 12th day of the third month of the Islamic calendar, Rabi'i Al-Awal. 

Happy Egyptian New Year 6266, Happy Coptic New Year 1741

Happy Egyptian New Year 6266!

Today, 11 September, marks "1 Tut", the first day of the Ancient Egyptian Year 6266, according to the ancient Egyptian calendar. 

On this occasion, I am sharing this small golden amulet — the Djed pillar amulet, found in King Tutankhamun's tomb (KV62) in the Valley of the Kings in 1922, among the wrappings around his mummy. 

King Tut's Djed pillar amulet 

Associated with the ancient Egyptian deities Ptah, the god of creation, and Osiris, the god of agriculture and resurrection, the Djed pillar represents stability and eternity in Egyptian mythology.

May all your days in the year 6266 be stable forever. May this year bring peace and justice to the people of Gaza, or Gazzatu, as it was called in ancient Egypt inshallah.

Kodak Agfa Presents: August’s Super blue Moon

Kodak Agfa is back with a supermoon photo.

It is super blue moon but I could not make it blue because it is blue per se

It is August’s Super Blue Moon that the world witnessed on Monday.

What is the Super Blue Moon? “Chat-GPT answer”

A superblue moon is a rare astronomical event that occurs when two unusual lunar phenomena align: a supermoon and a blue moon.

A supermoon happens when the full moon coincides with its closest approach to Earth in its elliptical orbit, making the moon appear larger and brighter in the night sky.

A blue moon refers to the second full moon in a single calendar month, an occurrence that is infrequent due to the lunar cycle being about 29.5 days long.

When these two events occur together, it's called a super blue moon—a striking sight that captures the imagination, as it combines the rarity of a blue moon with the enhanced visual impact of a supermoon.

At the same time the Super Blue Moon was covering the skies and photographers around the globe, the ongoing genocide in Gaza did stop at night. More children and civilians were killed.

The Palestinians in Gaza did not have the time to enjoy looking to the moon despite most of them being technically without a proper roof.

The ceasefire agreement seemed to be like a “blue moon” as we are hearing reports that Donald Trump asking Netanyahu to reject and sabotage technically any ceasefire deal or any deal by Biden/Harris administration, so the Democrats won’t achieve a bonus.

But at the same time here we are having a blue moon, there is still a hope.

Back to Moulid on Ashura: Yet another old visit to Al-Moulid Market at El-Sayeda Zeinab

It is Ashura, a holy day for not only Muslim Shia but for all Muslims as well as all the believers if you think about it.

According to the popular Islamic Sunni tradition, Ashura marks the parting of the Red Sea by Prophet Moses, Prophet Joseph was released from prison, Prophet Noah disembarked from the Ark, God forgave the father of all prophets and all mankind Prophet Adam

Nevertheless, some Muslim religious scholars believe that the only thing that happened on that day was the parting of the Red by Prophet Moses as mentioned by Prophet Mohamed “PBUH” while the rest was not explicitly mentioned.

Some believe that rest was added to the day by the Umayyads to downplay what happened on that day and left a black mark that divided the Muslims into two sects: Sunni and Shia.

On that day, the battle of Karbala occurred where the big Umayyad army led by Yazid stood against the army of the few led by no other Imam Al-Hussein, the grandson of Prophet Mohamed “PBUH”

On that day, Al-Hussein was martyred defending what can be described now as the right to elect the ruler aka election of a new caliph through shura (consultation) instead of the hereditary rule.

Gaza War 2023 : This is what the graffiti of Gaza says ( Vol.1)

As a loyal 25 January supporter, I feel weak whenever I see political graffiti. Political graffiti has always played a role in Egypt and the Arab world.

From its rise in 2011 to its decline in 2015, the graffiti of the Egyptian Revolution provided a platform for the public to express their opinions to the world.

That’s why when I see pictures of graffiti in Gaza from the past 8 months on social media, I feel deeply touched.

Here is some graffiti from Gaza.

Unlike other graffiti, most of it is drawn and written on the rubble and crumbling walls of houses.

According to data collected by the United Nations Satellite Centre (UNOSAT) on May 3 and published on May 31, more than half of all buildings in Gaza have been destroyed.

At least 137,297 buildings have been damaged, according to satellite imagery-based assessments by the UNOSAT.

In the past 8 months, the most common type of graffiti seen in Gaza, at least from photos, consists of notifications written on walls indicating that someone was killed under the rubble.

Usually, family members who survived but lost their homes in the Israeli shelling leave these messages for others as they embark on an unknown journey of displacement.

On the occasion of Eid Adha, photographer Haneen Salem found a young man in Gaza City who had written "Eid Mubarak to all of you" on the walls of his destroyed house.

"Happy Eid to all of you" from Gaza to the World 

He told Salem that his family was still under the rubble of the house, and this was the first Eid without them.

"I wanted to write next to their spirits and tell them that their Eid in paradise is more beautiful," he told her.

These pieces of graffiti have become like tombstones.